?Good Morning, Mr. Phelps. The original large holiday Matchless Star, beautiful for its crystal appearance, eventually may require a replacement bulb. Finding bulbs for these early 1937 decorative stars is impossible. Your assignment, should you decide to accept it, is to re-lamp a large Matchless Star. This tape will self-destruct in five seconds. Good luck.?---Mission Impossible (1966)
The task of re-lamping the larger size Matchless Stars is very difficult because the bulbs have not been available for years. The Matchless Stars, first available in 1937, were unique because they were made with imported Czechoslovakian cut crystal in gorgeous colors and replaceable lamps. The 15-watt, 120 volt lamp was soldered between the Bakelite backing plate to the brass socket and held together to the glass star with clips. By bending back the clips, the bulb assembly could be removed and replaced.
Replacement bulbs are available for the smaller Matchless Stars, which use a C-6 size bulb. The larger stars use a 15-watt, 120-volt lamp with a C-9, E17 (17mm) intermediate base or E26, (26mm) medium Edison screw base.
I have found that the candelabra C-7, E12 (12mm) bulbs are readily available in the correct wattage. Why not convert the inside of the E17 size socket to have the smaller E12 bulb and make that replaceable?
Finding the correct size E12 bulb to fit inside the Matchless Star is the other problem. There is limited space inside the star?1.83 inches to be exact. But I found a bulb and the method to replace those burnt out bulbs.
Supplies needed:
1 socket intermediate to candelabra (1000Bulbs.com, $1.00)
1 bulb, Westinghouse #03226, 15 watt, 120 volt, (15T4Q/CD/120/CD2. (Menards, $1.89)
Swab of glue.
Optional: 3? of 22 gauge copper wire, solder.
Quick and Easy Procedure #1
Bend back the six clips on the back of the Matchless Star and remove the bulb assembly. Break the glass bulb with pliers and twist off the brass socket. The octagon Bakelite backing plate will only be used.
Glue the socket to the backside hole of the Bakelite backing plate. Allow glue to dry. Insert bulb into backing plate. Reassemble Matchless Star in reverse order. Note: you also can use a C-9 outdoor gasket from the Mazda holiday lights to cover the glued area. Looks professionally done!
Time to complete: 10 minutes.
Difficult Professional Procedure #2
If you are handy with using a soldering iron, solder and copper wire and using a Dremmel tool, this procedure looks factory when done.
Bend back the six clips on the back of the Matchless Star and remove the bulb assembly. Break the glass bulb with pliers. Soak the backing plate with the old socket in hot water. This will loosen the glue and allow you and twist off the brass socket. The octagon brown Bakelite backing plate will only be used.
With a soldering iron, de-solder the E12 screw base from inside the E17 base of the replacement socket. The E12 socket is held with solder on two of the topsides and the bottom electrical connection. The inside E12 comes out of the E17 socket.
The E12 socket will have to fit through the inside of the backing plate. With your Dremmel tool, hone out the hole in the bottom of the Bakelite backing plate until the E12 socket fits through. Go slowly as not to chip the Bakelite. Glue the E12 socket into the backing plate from the inside.
It will be necessary to extend the electrical connection of the center outside of the E12 socket. Snip off a one-inch section of copper wire and solder it so that it extends from the bottom of the E12 socket. This will eventually be soldered into the inside through the E17 socket.
Solder a small piece of copper wire onto the outside top edge of the E12 socket directly under the triangle cutout opening on the Bakelite backing plate. Pull copper wire up out of the way. Place some glue onto the rim of the inside of the E17 socket and as you fit it onto the Bakelite backing plate, pull the center copper wire through the hole on the bottom of the E17 socket for later soldering. Line up the copper wire on the E12 socket with the triangle cutout on the backing plate and solder wire to outside of the E17 socket. Solder the wire pulled through bottom of the E17 socket. Trim excess copper wire.
Test the inside sides of the E12 socket with the outside sides of the E17 socket with a continuity tester. There should be continuity. Test the center solder of the E12 socket with the center E17 socket for continuity. There should be continuity. Test the sides of the E12 socket with the bottom of the E17 socket. There should be no continuity.
Reassemble matchless star and secure clips.
Time to complete: 2 hours.
Randy Pozzi (04/01/2010)
zozman50@hotmail.com
